British-Nigerian designer Iniye Tokyo James made history on March 3, 2025, by live-streaming his Autumn/Winter 2025 “Midnight” collection from Lagos to Milan Fashion Week (MFW), blending Nigerian craftsmanship with global luxury.
The hybrid event—held at Vici on Victoria Island, Lagos, and broadcast to Milan’s iconic Duomo—marked the brand’s 10th anniversary and fifth consecutive MFW showcase, drawing celebrities, dignitaries, and industry leaders to celebrate African design innovation.
A Decade of Disruption
The “Midnight” collection showcased Tokyo James’ signature fusion of structured tailoring and fluid drapery, reimagining traditional techniques like Adire fabric dyeing and leatherwork.
Pieces ranged from sheer lace dresses evoking woven African baskets to sharply tailored jackets incorporating Nigerian-sourced leathers, which James emphasized are “exported globally but rarely spotlighted domestically”.
The designer’s use of Lagos’ nocturnal energy as a color palette—deep backs, metallic golds, and muted browns—mirrored his mission to challenge perceptions of African luxury.
Why Lagos?
James’ decision to pivot from Milan to Lagos reflects broader frustrations with European fashion ecosystems. “Milan is a place you go when you’re already huge,” he noted, citing systemic barriers for Black designers and a desire to recenter Nigerian audiences.
By streaming the show locally, he aimed to prove African fashion “is as good, if not better” than global counterparts while empowering Lagos’ emerging status as a fashion capital. Lagos State Commissioner for Tourism Toke Benson-Awoyinka, who attended in Adire fabric, called the event a cultural export: “You can be dressed Nigerian, made in Nigeria, and accepted worldwide”.
Industry Reactions
Nigerian actress Mimi Onalaja praised the collection’s daring eclecticism, while model Tobi Adeshina highlighted the milestone for local talent: “Being on Tokyo’s runway is the beginning of good things”.
The show’s hybrid format also addressed logistical challenges African designers face, such as visa barriers for models and buyers—a hurdle James bypassed by keeping production in Lagos.
The Future of African Luxury
As Lagos Fashion Week gains traction (S/S 2025 featured 30+ designers), James’ move signals a shift toward decentralized, culturally rooted showcases. With plans to explore other European cities post-Milan, the designer aims to expand Nigeria’s influence: “We’re part of the global conversation”. His success underscores a growing appetite for African narratives in luxury fashion, where heritage and modernity collide to redefine borderless style.
Watch the highlight below:
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